Discovering the Prati-Trionfale Neighborhood

The Prati-Trionfale neighborhood is a bustling European-feeling part of Rome. Apart from the ever-present Vatican City (technically not in Prati or even in Italy) and Castel Sant’Angelo, there is not much in the way of cultural highlights to attract people here. Instead, Prati thrives on business and daily life and this can be a welcome respite from the Stendhal syndrome which strikes the visitor exhausted from seeing a famous monument at every turn.

Formerly open fields (“prati”) until it was urbanized after the unification of Italy in the late 19th century, today Prati is especially known for its expensive flats, commercial and professional offices, and proximity to the Vatican City.  And, its increasing number of cool restaurants, wine bars and pubs. Below are a few of our favorites:

1. Ristorante L’Arcangelo

Charming, elegant with creative dishes, meat, fish and vegetarian. Try the pigeon, served with a burning sprig of rosemary and a rich nutty mustard sauce. The same owner, chef Arcangelo Dandini, has a street food establishment called Supplizio on Via dei Banchi Vecchi. L’Arcangelo is famous for its carbonara and amatriciana and the great supplì.

Ristorante L’Arcangelo, Via Giuseppe Gioacchino Belli 59, 00193 Roma. tel: +39 06 3210992 Closed Sundays!

2.  Sciascia Caffè

Sciascia is an old and authentic Caffè in the middle of Prati, here since the construction of the area in the 19th century. The finest selection of coffees, pastries and chocolates are served and available to buy and take home. Famous for their chocolate-coffee, a coffee with a little bit of melted dark chocolate inside, and the inspiring interiors recalling the early 20’s.

Sciascia Caffè, Via Fabio Massimo 80/A, 00192 Roma. Tel: +39 06 321 1580

3.  Panificio Bonci

After his “Pizzarium”, the most famous pizza maker of Italy, Gabriele Bonci, has opened also his Panificio. This Bakery distinguishes itself not only for the first quality of its food, but also for its desire to use other kinds of flours and cereals, like the ancient enkir. Check out the great pizza by the slice (simpler than the Pizzarium’s), bread, simple pastries most of all at breakfast, a small selection of cooked dishes for dinner (lasagne, roast chicken, polpette, special burgers, supplì…), and a choice of traditional foods that Romans like to eat on particular occasions (like panettone for Christmas, colomba and casatiello for Easter).

Panificio Bonci, Via Trionfale 36, 00192 Roma. Tel: +39 06 39734457

4.  Mercato Trionfale

One of the best and biggest traditional food establishments in Rome, with its 273 stalls selling everything you could want from a market. Located in a huge building near the Vatican — which has recently also hosted interesting works of street art  (like the Anna Magnani image on the stairs), the atmosphere is always vital and authentic.  The marketplace contains many direct sellers of vegetables, fruits, meat and fish from all the surrounding area of Rome. Better to go there in the morning–like most of Rome’s markets it closes early in the afternoon.

Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria 3, 00192 Roma. Tel: +39 06 3972 0786

5.  Magazzino Scipioni

New cozy wine bar in the middle of Prati neighborhood. Just take a bottle from the shelves and drink it at the table with with someone interesting you want to have a chat with.

Magazzino Scipioni, Via degli Scipioni 30, 00192 Roma. Tel: +39 06 39742173



6.  Gelateria dei Gracchi

Always bustling with locals spilling out the door, this gelateria has been voted top in Rome on countless review sites and for good reason. The flavors are unique and made fresh. Some of the best nocciola and pinoli you can find in Rome.

Gelateria dei Gracchi, Via dei Gracchi 272, 00190 Roma. Tel: +39 06 3216668

7.  Banana Republic

Great place for a bite and drink just north of Prati. It’s on a quiet street but has a fun atmosphere inside. The food is great and the drinks are even better, especially its rich cocktail menu.

Banana Republic, Via Giovanno Bettolo 3, 00195 Roma. Tel: +39 06 3723291

8.  Casa Museo Alberto Moravia

The Alberto Moravia Museum House is the house where the writer, critic, essayist and Member of the European Parliament, Alberto Moravia (Rome, 1907-1990) lived. The museum can be visited only with a guided tour. For (required) booking contact Bell’Italia 88, tel. +39 06 39728186 or +39 348 3206721. Tours can be booked at the beginning of the month preceding the date of the visit for no more than 15 persons.

Casa Museo Alberto Moravia,  Lungotevere della Vittoria 1,  00195 Roma. Tel: +39 06 39728186 or +39 348 3206721